Birthday’s are really special to me. My birthday, your birthday. Doesn’t matter. I like making a fuss. You deserve it! For the past few years, I feel as though Krissie and my birthday is treated like a month long holiday. I have no problem with that. We celebrate with just the two of us, with the boys, with our parents, with friends. The combinations go on and on. So, following our special twin only birthday dinner at Bistro Du Midi, which I will not be blogging about because I treated myself to a night off to simply enjoy my sister and my meal, we were treated to a couple birthday dinner. FYI, Bistro Du Midi was amazing, so be sure I’ll be back for some blog coverage.
Our counterparts surprised us to dinner at Whisk, a Boston pop up restaurant that is currently residing at 351 Hanover Street in the North End. Whisk is a really novel idea for Boston. We still haven’t completely embraced the pop up model with a notable exception being Guchi’s Midnight Ramen. Guchi Hiro, I’m coming for you man. This particular pop up idea was started by Chef/Owners Jeremy Kean and Philip Kruta. Their mission “is to share our innovative culinary expression and our knowledge with those in need of skills and gainful employment.” Love that.
Down the rabbit hole
OYSTER ESCABECHE & FRIED OYSTER
candy orange mignonette, oyster liquor foam | lemon aioli, watermelon, cilantro
smoked duck, watermelon, chanterelles, smoked tomato jam
CURRIED SQUASH SOUP
carrot, meringue, pepitos
peanut, nuoc cham, coconut broth
SOURDOUGH PAIN PERDU
carraway custard, fermented raspberries
peanut, rosemary, lime, and one giant household candle
Thank you for the great dinner, boys!
Yeeee! Happy Birthday to us!
The meal was wonderful with nice touches such as Jeremy Kean swinging by to discuss each of the dishes with us. An even nicer touch was our dessert which was adorned with a giant candle. I laughed when I saw it and made note, big candle, big year. I’m excited to see where Whisk moves next and will make sure I have a seat at it’s new location.
351 Hanover Street
Boston, MA 02113
It’s been a while since I last visited Stir, the South End’s small 10 seater demonstration kitchen. If it sounds familiar to you, it’s because Stir has been a talent mill for chefs like Kristen Kish and Stephanie Cmar, Top Chef winner and current Top Cheftestant. As a lovely birthday surprise, Mr. E nabbed us two spots for the All About Mushrooms dinner.
The night’s fungus variety
From the very beginning of our relationship, Mr. E has come to know that I love mushrooms. It was our happy medium when Mr. E was toying with the idea of becoming a full fledged vegan, which thankfully for this carnivorous girl was short lived (but not short enough, cough).
chanterelle, cremini, creme fraiche
2009 Chindaine Montlouis sur Loire
Eric LeBlanc, the Chef de Cusine, said his mushroom broth had 4 beautiful hours to simmer down. Man, oh man, could you tell. The taste was so pure. The soup was so luscious and velvety finished with my favorite and yours, sherry vinegar. Sherry vinegar is a superhero ingredient in my kitchen. You cannot make rich soups without it. Next time you make a chowder, throw a splash in towards the end. Such a game changer. On top was a truffle creme fraiche and some homemade croutons. There were some grumblings among my fellow diners that there was not enough truffle flavor, but I’m going to be honest, that soup stood on its own two feet.
2012 Terre Nere Etna Bianco
The risotto dish was earthy both in flavor and in appearance. It looks like mother earth planted these little morsels in my dinner! This was preconceived many days in advance and the planning really paid off. Mushroom risotto is a very classic dish, but the addition of squid ink took this unctuous beauty from Awesome to Star World level. It added just a touch of ocean brine, which paired so well with the Terre Nere wine pairing. It was as if wine pairings suddenly all made sense to me. The wine was crisp and light, with a mineral essence likely from the vineyard’s rich volcanic soil. It’s also a Sicilian wine, so hey, I have no problem with that. Before you judge that last comment, I’m no wine expert. In fact, I put my wine knowledge in the same bucket as my college football knowledge. I pick brackets based on jersey color and mascot. So needless to say, I pick my wine based on label appeal and cost.
The chicken of the woods mushroom was our first really beefy mushroom of the night. It is the light orange mushroom in the picture of the uncooked mushrooms above. The underbelly is a neon yellow, which is pretty daunting as a diner. Is neon even a natural color?
Mr. E getting fancy with the camera
galantine, chicken of the woods, egg
2011 Rion Bourgogne Pinot Noir
I loved this dish. It was definitely a playful move by the chef. He deconstructed a chicken, turning the insides of a chicken into a galantine encased in its own skin. Still didn’t top the risotto, which was such a stand out for me. Maybe it’s a surprise, maybe not, but chicken of the woods is one of those foods that actually does kind of taste like chicken. As if the neon didn’t puzzle me enough. My mind was a bit blown by that particular mushroom.
Slow poached eggs and the anatomy of a chicken
The egg, a very slow, low temperature poached egg was like a thick comforter on top of the galantine. The method for cooking the onsen egg leaves the egg in its shell, like a boiled egg at a much gentler temperature, resulting in a very thick pudding like yolk. Texturally, this dish could have used some snap, crackle, or pop, but it was still a yummy dish nonetheless.
porcini dust, hen of the woods, truffle
2011 Dei Rosso di Montepulciano
At this part of the meal, I started feeling extremely full. Watching Eric prepare the pasta and seeing the handfuls of butter he kept adding to the rich sauce made me want to take a timeout and come back to tackle the pasta an hour later. The pasta itself incorporated dehydrated porcini, which was turned into a powder. Amazing. Then to revisit the sauce, he used his mushroom broth, an obscene amount of butter (not complaining), and not one but TWO truffles. I would have liked my pasta to have a bit more bite, but the truffles and the healthy dose of parmigiana drove me bonkers. So so good.
apple, chanterelle, lobster mushroom
2009 Heinrich Red Cat for the Butcher Shop
The finale of the meal was the scariest mushroom of them all, the lobster mushroom which seriously smells like fish. Whoa baby. It was prepared in very thin slices, so really not that intimidating at all. It also lent itself as a side to the pork, which was accompanied by a very smooth, tart apple sauce. Now, I’m not one to turn down bacon, but I’m definitely beginning to feel the effects of the bacon bandwagon. That being said, the dish was delicious and tasted like fall on a plate. Beyond it tasting good, nothing was too memorable about the dish.
Big thanks to Chef de Cuisine Eric LeBlanc and his assistant Christine Milam
We left with good notes and very full bellies!
102 Waltham Street
Boston, MA 02118
Celeriac in hand!
Yummy veggies to offset the sugar and calorie onslaught below
Snuck in some Union Square Donuts
The craziest zucchini I ever did see!
In the past month, I’ve been frequenting local farmers’ markets. In my last big haul, I brought home the knobby monster otherwise known as celeriac. With absolutely no clue what to do with my new root vegetable, I figured it could join some pommes et pommes de terre in a nice early autumn soup.
The start of something beautiful
1 celery root aka celeriac (peeled and chopped)
8-10 red potatoes (quartered with skins on)
1 large Cortland apple (peeled and chopped)
1/2 yellow onion, diced
1 quart chicken broth
2 Tbsp butter
1/4 cup heavy cream
1/2 tsp dried Thyme
salt and pepper to taste
In a large pot, saute the onions in butter over medium heat until translucent. Add the celeriac and potatoes. Saute for about 8-10 minutes until they are cooked. Add broth and apples. Bring to a boil and then simmer for 30 minutes. Blend with an immersion blender or, if using a blender, blend in batches in the blender but don’t forget to cover your top with a towel or you’ll end up with some pretty nasty burns! Stir in the heavy cream and season with salt and pepper. Garnish with matchstick apples and serve!